Dodge Diesel Edge Injector Jammer Nozzles Installation Instructions

Injector Nozzles Installation Instructions

As many of you know, Edge does NOT send installation instructions with their Jammer Nozzles. Many of our customers have called us and asked us to help walk them through the installation process, which we have and will never mind doing no matter how busy we may be. We feel that putting instructions on our web site will ease the installation process and help inform those of you that may want to try to install the nozzles yourself.

Don't be discouraged about installing these nozzles after reading these instructions. It may sound like a complicated job, but we assure you that it IS NOT. Average time is about 2-2 1/2 hours for the first timer. We encourage you to print these instructions out and have them beside you as you are doing the job. It will all make sense once you start the job!

You MUST have a torque wrench that will that will torque to 28ft lbs accurately.

Other tools needed: 8-19mm wrenches, 8-19mm deep and shallow sockets and ratchet, long needle nose pliers, small flat head screw driver, 1 can of brake cleaner, and shop rags.(lots of them as you want to keep EVERYTHING as clean as possible.

One of the first things that you will want to do is to remove the negative battery cables from both batteries. Then, remove the 4 bolts that hold on the aluminum intake elbow, heater grid, and ground strap on the DRIVER's side of the engine bay. Loosen the lower hose clamp that connects the elbow with the intercooler piping with the 11mm deep socket and ratchet and simply move it out of your way. Next, remove the 3 bolts that attaches the TPS assembly to the engine and lay it aside.

On the drivers side engine compartment, you will see an engine hook that is bolted to the engine with 2 15mm bolts towards the firewall. This will need to be removed. Loosen all 6 of the injector lines that thread into the side of the cylinder head with your 19mm wrench. Now, you can loosen and remove the 10mm and 8mm bolts that hold the injector lines on the intake manifold.(you will NOT need to remove all of them. just remove what is necessary to allow the lines to move.)

Loosen the 19mm nuts that are threaded into the cylinder head and slide them back. Inside, you will see the fuel feed tubes. Pry these tubes out with your small flat head screwdriver about a 1/4 of an inch. YOU MUST PRY THESE TUBES OUT 1/4 INCH. NOT DOING SO WILL RESULT IN BENT OR BROKEN FEED TUBES.

Remove the valve cover bolts and valve cover from the engine. You will now see the plates that cover the injectors under each set of rocker arms. They are held in place by two 8mm bolts. You will only have to loosen and remove the outer 8mm bolt to remove these plates. The plates are slotted on the other end and acts as a guide so that you can line them up with the 8mm bolt that you DID NOT remove.

We recommend that you install the injector nozzles one at a time! That means, pull 1 injector, replace the nozzle, and install the injector back into the head, and then pull out another.

Once you have removed the plate, you will see the top of the injector. Use the shorter bolt that bolted the intake elbow/heater grid down and thread it into the top of the injector. Use your needle nose pliers and pry up against the rocker arms to pull the injector out.

Now, you will need to screw off the cap with a 15mm deep socket. Make sure the injector IS upside down(nozzle pointing up). Make sure your hands are ready when you pull this cap off as the nozzle will fall out! Slowly pull the cap off and old injector nozzle out. It is ok if the plunger(looks like a needle) falls out. You will use the new ones that came with your new nozzles.(you cannot use the old ones!) Make sure the seat and spring did not fall out of the injector body! If they did, you WILL NEED to put them back the way they came out.

The nozzles will only go on one way. Notice the three holes on the nozzle and on the parts in the injector body. Make sure you line these holes up with those on the body. Clean the caps and copper washers and wipe them off. Lube the threads of the CAP with a little(not a lot) of oil and thread it back onto the body of the injector. Torque that cap to 28 ft lbs. This is a must! Lube the O ring with oil or Vaseline and thread the bolt back into the top of the injector. Install the copper washer and install the injector back into the head. Make sure you line up the slot on top of the injector with the 8mm bolt in the head and make sure the feed hole on the injector faces toward the drivers side. You will feel a snap when you push down on the injector to install it. Now put the plate back on and tighten it down with the 8mm bolt.(DO NOT over tighten this bolt. IT IS A SMALL BOLT AND CAN BREAK!) Make sure to push the feed tubes back into the head also. You will feel a snap when they are in place as well.

Repeat the above steps for the other 5 injectors.

Once everything is back together, you can try to start your truck. You will need to loosen the return line on the injection pump. This is the line on the left if you are looking at the injection pump standing at driver's side front wheel. Turn the key to the "ON" position and listen for the lift pump to run. Once the pump stops running, you need to bump the key so that the starter engages briefly. Now, you should hear the pump run for a while and stop again. Repeat these steps several times and then try to start your truck. We've never had a truck fail to start after following these steps. Just be patient, take your time, and do it right!

We have noticed that trucks with higher stage injector nozzles tend to idle a little rougher.(a little, not a lot) Do NOT be alarmed.

*NOTE: these instructions are for installing the nozzles only, not for pop testing or diagnosing.